The Secrets That No One Told You About When Using Hydrostone

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Ever been excited to create something with hydrostone, only to end up wondering what went wrong? I’ve been there, and today I’m sharing some must-know tips that’ll help you with your hydrostone candle jar projects, whether you’re a seasoned pro or just love a good DIY challenge.

Where to Buy Hydrostone 

To keep your hydrostone in top shape, proper storage is key. Here’s how to do it right:

First, find a cool, dry place for your hydrostone. Keep it away from moisture and humidity, as these can negatively impact the material. Think of it this way: moisture plus hydrostone equals a not-so-great sculpture!

Aim to store hydrostone in temperatures ranging from 50°F to 70°F (10°C to 21°C). Use an airtight container to keep it fresh, and make sure the container is clean to avoid contaminating your hydrostone.

Avoid placing your hydrostone directly on concrete floors or surfaces that might transfer moisture.

Here’s a quick story from my experience:

About a year ago, after a heavy overnight rain, my sump pump decided to fail. I woke up to find my basement flooded. Thankfully, the containers I used kept the hydrostone safe. If I had stored it in its original packaging, though, it would have turned into—yep, you guessed it—a not-so-great sculpture.

So, keep those storage tips in mind to avoid any potential mishaps!

Safety

When working with hydrostone, safety is a top priority. Recently, one of my students asked about when to remove the respirator and how to know when the room is safe to breathe in again. Here’s what I recommend:

I typically take off my respirator once I’ve finished my task and am ready to leave the room. Even though some dust might linger, regular cleaning and wearing a respirator should keep you safe. For tasks that don’t involve mixing products, I use an N95 mask instead of a full respirator.

You might wonder why a respirator or N95 mask is necessary, especially if hydrostone doesn’t contain a lot of silica sand. So, what’s the deal with silica sand?

Silica sand, made mostly of quartz particles, can be harmful if inhaled over time. It’s linked to serious lung conditions like silicosis.

To clear things up: Yes, hydrostone does contain a small amount of silica sand. While it’s not a huge amount, even small quantities can be harmful if you’re not properly protected.

Here’s a quick story to illustrate this:

Years ago, I quit drinking but still wanted to fit in at a party, so I brought along some non-alcoholic beer. After having a few, I started to feel woozy and told my then-girlfriend that I felt tipsy despite only drinking non-alcoholic beer. She was shocked and told me, “Non-alcoholic beer has alcohol in it!”

I was stunned. Why would non-alcoholic beer have alcohol? To this day, I’m still puzzled by it.

The point is, even small amounts of something can have an effect—just like the tiny bit of silica sand in hydrostone. It can still pose a risk if you’re not careful.

Beyond silica sand, hydrostone also contains other chemicals like calcium sulfate dihydrate (gypsum) and calcium carbonate (limestone). While hydrostone is generally safer than Cement All, it’s still important to take precautions.

Stay safe and protect yourself while working with hydrostone!

Silicone Bowls

If you’re serious about making concrete candle jar or concrete creations, are an absolute game-changer.

They’re incredibly practical and user-friendly. All you need to do is pour your mixture into the bowl, give it a good mix, and squeeze the silicone to guide your pour. Plus, cleaning up is a breeze.

I’ve even got a  on how to easily clean these silicone bowls, just in case they get stained from pigments. Once I’m done pouring, I let any leftover contents harden, crack it off, and wipe down the bowl. It’s as simple as that.

Check it out for yourself. I’ve used these bowls for various colors, additives, paints, and dyes, and they still look brand new.

I absolutely love these silicone bowls silicone bowls—they’re an essential tool for any serious concrete or hydrostone candle maker. Their flexibility and ease of use make them a game-changer in the studio.

Here’s why you should consider adding them to your toolkit:

These bowls are incredibly versatile. Simply add your mix, stir it up, and then squeeze the bowl to direct your pour with precision. Cleanup is a breeze, too. Don’t believe me. Check out this video tutorial. 

I’ve got a video showing you just how easy it is to clean these silicone bowls. The process is straightforward: finish pouring your mixture into your mold, let it set, then crack off the hardened material and wipe down the bowl. That’s it!

Check out these bowls—they still look nearly new despite all the use they’ve seen.

Trust me, silicone bowls are a fantastic investment. You won’t be disappointed!

Silicone Mats

Trust me, investing in these silicone bowls and mats is a decision you won’t regret. They make the whole concrete crafting experience a whole lot smoother. 

Ever find yourself with a splashy mess when mixing and pouring hydrostone? You’re not alone—no matter how careful I am, things still tend to get everywhere!

When working with hydrostone, especially if you’re using pigments (which we’ll cover later), spills can get even messier. If your mixture ends up splashing out of your silicone bowl and onto your table, here’s how you can handle it:

1. Wipe It Up Immediately: This might seem like the most straightforward approach, but it can be tricky. If you’re in the middle of a pour and need to focus on filling your molds, you might not have time to clean up right away. Plus, colors like black can leave streaks, making the mess look even worse after cleaning.

2. Let It Harden and Chisel It Off: This method involves waiting until the hydrostone has dried and then chiseling it away. The downside? Hydrostone can bond strongly with surfaces like your work table, making it hard to remove. And when you chisel, those chunks can fly around like they’re in a high-speed chase.

3. Use a Silicone Mat: This is by far the best solution. A silicone mat catches any spills and makes cleanup a breeze. Hydrostone won’t stick to the silicone, and if you need to clean up while it’s still wet, it won’t leave streaks or colorful residue. Just wipe it off, and you’re done!

Silicone mats are a game-changer for keeping your workspace clean and hassle-free. Trust me, once you start using a silicone mat, you’ll wonder how you ever managed without one! 

How to Mix Hydrostone & Water Together

When it comes to mixing hydrostone and water, there are two main approaches: adding the water to the hydrostone or adding the hydrostone to the water. But do you know which method is best? Or are you just following what everyone else does?

Let’s dive in and see why one method might be better than the other!

Quick Story:

I once heard about a woman who always trimmed the ends off her bread dough before baking. When asked why, she said it was because her mother did it. Curious, she asked her mother, who said it was a tradition from her own mother. When she finally asked her grandmother, she discovered the practice started because the bread didn’t fit properly in the pan!

The point is, just because something is done a certain way doesn’t always mean it’s the best way. So, let’s apply that thinking to our hydrostone mixing.

Why Sifting Hydrostone into Water Works Best:

Instead of dumping hydrostone into water, which can lead to clumps and air bubbles, try sifting the hydrostone into the water. This method ensures a smoother, more controlled mixing process and prevents issues like uneven consistency.

By sifting, you gradually add the plaster to the water, which helps achieve a lump-free mixture and reduces the risk of creating excess dust. This also promotes a safer and cleaner mixing environment.

So, be a leader in your craft and spread the knowledge! Using the sifting method will make your mixing process more efficient and effective.

Water

Now that you know how to add hydrostone to water effectively, there’s one crucial factor to consider: not all water is created equal.

Water isn’t just H2O—it can contain a variety of chemicals and bacteria that might affect your hydrostone creations. Here’s what you need to know:

Chemicals Found in Water:

• Chlorine
• Fluoride
• Heavy Metals (e.g., lead, arsenic, mercury)
• Pesticides
• Herbicides
• Industrial Chemicals (e.g., solvents, PCBs, dioxins)
• Nitrate
• Pharmaceuticals
• Personal Care Products

Bacteria Found in Water:

• E. coli
• Salmonella
• Legionella
• H. pylori

These substances can impact your hydrostone projects in several ways. For instance, chemicals like heavy metals can interfere with curing and affect the strength of your pieces. Bacteria such as E. coli can lead to defects or discoloration, while other contaminants might influence the setting time and finish, potentially leaving residues on your creations.

I’m not saying you need to rush out and buy purified or distilled water—though you can if you like. However, if you notice issues with your projects, it might be worth investigating the quality of your water. Testing your pieces could reveal if water quality is causing any problems.

Don’t Mix Hydrostone Right Away

After you’ve sifted your hydrostone into the water, resist the urge to mix it immediately. Instead, let it sit for a few minutes to create what I call the “dry lake bed” effect. This means letting the hydrostone absorb the water before you start blending.

Why is this important? Allowing the hydrostone to sit helps in the mixing process by making it easier to combine the water and hydrostone smoothly. It also helps reduce bubbles, resulting in a smoother mixture overall.

Remember, just because the hydrostone and water are in the same bowl doesn’t mean the mixing process has started. The reaction needed for the hydrostone to harden only begins when you start to agitate it.

Interestingly, the longer you let the mixture sit, the less you’ll need to mix it, and the smoother the consistency will be. However, don’t let it sit too long—15 minutes is ideal. This waiting period is perfect for tackling other tasks while making your candle jars.

So, take a breather and let the hydrostone do its thing before you dive into mixing. It’ll make your process smoother and more efficient!

Using Pigments, Paints or Dyes

When adding color to your hydrostone creations, how and when you add pigments or dyes can make a big difference in the final result. Here’s a guide to get the best color outcomes:

1. Pigments: For the most even color distribution, add your pigments to the water first before mixing them with the hydrostone. This method helps prevent clumping and ensures the color is distributed uniformly throughout the mixture. By blending pigments with water initially, you make the entire mixing process smoother and have better control over color intensity and consistency.

2. Acrylic Paint: If you’re using acrylic paint, add it after the hydrostone mixture is prepared. Be cautious, as too much acrylic paint can thicken the mixture and impact its adherence. To avoid this, dilute the paint with a small amount of water—no more than 10% of the paint’s weight. For example:

• If using 10 grams of paint, add 1 gram of water.
• If using 20 grams of paint, add 2 grams of water.

Using too much water can weaken the mixture and affect the paint’s vibrancy and durability.

3. Rit Dye: Hydrostone’s porous nature makes dyeing tricky. Dipping your hydrostone creations into Rit Dye can yield less vibrant colors compared to concrete. For best results, let your hydrostone pieces fully cure before dipping. Alternatively, add the Rit Dye to your water before mixing it with the hydrostone, but never replace all the water with dye. The dye shouldn’t substitute for the water needed for the hydrostone to solidify.

Colorant Guidelines: Regardless of the colorant you choose, adhere to the 5% rule for best results. Aim to add no more than 5% of your chosen colorant to the hydrostone mixture. For example, with a 3:1 ratio of hydrostone to water (300 grams of hydrostone and 100 grams of water), you’d add up to 15 grams (5% of 300 grams) of colorant. Exceeding this limit can compromise the strength and integrity of your creations.

Why It Matters: If you’re planning to sell your pieces, ensuring their strength is crucial because you never know how your customers will use them. So, make your creations strong and vibrant, and they’ll stand the test of time!

Marbling

Marbling can bring stunning visual effects to your hydrostone creations, and there are several techniques you can use to achieve unique patterns. Here’s a breakdown of different marbling methods and best practices:

1. Acrylic Paint:

• Cut the Paint: As mentioned before, diluting your acrylic paint with a bit of water gives you more flexibility. This dilution helps the paint blend more seamlessly into your hydrostone mix, allowing for smoother marbling patterns.

2. Pigment Powder:

• Mix with Water: Add a small amount of pigment powder to a hint of water to create a colorful mixture. Swirl this mixture around in your hydrostone to achieve beautiful marbling effects. The water helps distribute the pigment evenly and creates intriguing patterns.

3. Rit Dye (RD):

• Swirl Without Adding Extra Water: Use Rit Dye similarly to pigment powder. Simply swirl a bit of RD around your mixture. There’s no need to add extra water; just swirl and you’ll get vibrant marbled patterns.

4. Multiple Hydrostone Colors:

• Mix and Swirl: This is my favorite method. Combine 2 or 3 different pigment powders into separate portions of hydrostone to create multiple colors. Gradually mix and swirl these colors together for a stunning marbled effect.

Important Note: When marbling, remember that adding too many color additives can weaken your hydrostone mixture. Stick to the 5% rule to maintain the strength and durability of your pieces. For instance, if you’re using 300 grams of hydrostone, limit your total color additives to 15 grams to avoid compromising the mix’s integrity.

Experiment with these techniques to find what works best for your style, but always keep in mind the impact on the strength of your final product. Enjoy creating those beautiful marbled designs!

Sandling

Sanding hydrostone is generally a breeze compared to sanding concrete, and here’s why:

Hydrostone vs. Concrete: Hydrostone has a softer, more workable texture, making it easier to sand down. Once fully cured, it tends to be relatively smooth, so you can sand out bubbles or rough edges with minimal effort.

Practical Tip: If you need to smooth out the bottoms of your candle jars or refine any rough spots, hydrostone makes this process easy. Just a quick sanding, and you’re good to go.

Why It Matters: You might think, “Great, sanding hydrostone is easier than sanding concrete. Thanks for the tip, Jai!” But this is especially important if you’re into making Terrazzo candle jars.

For example:

• Check out this Terrazzo jar I created with hydrostone—it took me just 3 minutes to get it looking perfect.
• Now compare that to my Terrazzo Cement All candle jar, which took a whopping 10 minutes to achieve a similar finish.

See the difference? Easier sanding means faster, more efficient work and a smoother finish for your creations. So, if you want to save time and effort, hydrostone’s sandability is a game-changer. You’re welcome!

 

Silicone Molds

If you’re new to demolding, there’s something important to note about hydrostone: like concrete, it hardens firmly.

**Why It Matters:**

Most silicone molds are designed with a taut fit, and while demolding a single hydrostone jar might seem easy, try doing 5, 10, or 20 at once and it becomes a real workout. By the end, you might feel like Emperor Palpatine from *Return of the Jedi*—exhausted and in need of a rest.

But don’t worry! There’s a solution to make demolding easier and pain-free: Boowan Nicole silicone molds.

**Proof in the Pudding:**

Let me show you the difference (video here)

I tested two similar cylindrical silicone molds:
1. **Amazon Mold:** Used it over a hundred times.
2. **Boowan Nicole Mold:** Only a few uses.

The Amazon mold is straightforward, just silicone with no added features. In contrast, the Boowan Nicole mold comes with a support brace, clips, and a lid.

Here’s the breakdown:
– **Amazon Mold:** Took 25.29 seconds to demold.
– **Boowan Nicole Mold:** Took only 10.90 seconds.

That’s a 56.91% reduction in time!

**Why Boowan Nicole is Better:**

The Boowan Nicole mold’s extra features make demolding much faster and less strenuous. If you’re handling multiple hydrostone jars, investing in the right silicone mold will save you time and protect your hands.

So, if you want to avoid turning your demolding session into a workout, go for Boowan Nicole silicone molds. Trust me, your hands will thank you. 

Click here to check out some of the awesome Boowan Nicole silicone molds. 

Demolding Times

Curing times for hydrostone can vary based on location and item size. Here’s a general guide:

My Personal Experience:

• Small Hydrostone Vessels: Usually demold in about 30 minutes.
• Larger Vessels with Thicker Edges: Typically need around 45 minutes.

Environmental Factors:

• Humidity: High humidity, like in Florida during summer, can extend curing times. Remember, humidity isn’t just about heat; a cold, humid environment can also affect curing.
• Cold and Humid Conditions: These can also influence how long you need to wait before demolding.

Testing Your Own Times:

• Create a Test Piece: Make a hydrostone item and demold it at various time intervals (e.g., 30, 35, 40, 45 minutes).
• Find the Sweet Spot: Determine the point where the item isn’t quite ready to demold and add an additional 5 minutes as a precaution. This will give you a reliable demolding time for your specific conditions.

Why It Matters: For creators who sell their pieces, knowing your optimal demolding time is crucial. It helps in efficiently managing your silicone molds, allowing you to reuse them sooner and maintain a smoother production flow.

Finding this balance can streamline your process and potentially increase your output, which is essential for keeping up with demand and maximizing efficiency.

Do Not Water Bathe

A common question I receive is whether to water bathe hydrostone creations, especially when people are accustomed to this technique with concrete. Here’s why you shouldn’t:

Hydrostone vs. Cement All:

• Cement All: This concrete product requires water bathing because it is primarily cement-based. Cement needs water for the hydration process, which is essential for the material to harden and achieve strength. Without adequate water, Cement All can end up weaker or less durable.

• Hydrostone: This is a type of gypsum plaster, which sets differently from cement. Hydrostone undergoes a process called crystallization, which doesn’t require continuous exposure to water. Once mixed with water and poured into molds, Hydrostone hardens through this internal crystallization process.

Key Points:

• No Need for Water Bathing: Hydrostone sets and hardens effectively without additional water bathing.
• Curing Process: Hydrostone’s chemical change during curing doesn’t benefit from extra water, unlike Cement All.

So, whether you’re in a humid or dry environment, you don’t need to water bathe your hydrostone creations. Enjoy the process and focus on other aspects of your craft!

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Curing

Curing is a critical step in the process of making hydrostone candles that is often overlooked, especially by beginners.

**Why Curing Matters:**

– **Porosity:** Hydrostone is extremely porous. It’s so porous that if you looked up “porous” in the dictionary, you’d probably see a picture of hydrostone! This porosity means that proper curing is essential to reach its maximum strength and durability.

– **Chemical Reactions:** During curing, hydrostone undergoes crucial chemical reactions to develop its internal structure fully. This process is vital for ensuring the material achieves its intended hardness and strength.

**Avoiding Common Mistakes:**
– **Sealing Too Early:** If you seal a hydrostone item before it’s fully cured, you risk trapping moisture inside. This can weaken the structure and negatively affect its appearance and texture. For instance, sealing an uncured candle jar and then lighting a candle inside could cause trapped moisture to escape, leading to bubbling, flaking, cracking, or even breakage.

**How to Determine When Curing is Complete:**
1. **Daily Weighing:** Start by weighing your vessel daily from the day you demold it.
2. **Observe Weight Stability:** When the vessel’s weight stabilizes or shows minimal change, it indicates that it has lost most of its water weight and is sufficiently cured.

Once your hydrostone creation has reached this stage, it’s ready for the next steps, including sealing. Proper curing will ensure your creations are strong and durable, avoiding the issues that come from premature sealing.

Foil, Paint & Labeling 

Once your hydrostone creation is fully cured, you might want to enhance its appearance with foil, paint, or labels. Here’s a guide on how to do each:

1. Foil Application

• Using Glue: Apply a glue specifically designed for foil to the areas where you want to add foil. Once the glue is tacky, place the foil on top and press it gently to adhere.
• Using ESF Sealant: For a different method, use ESF sealant as an adhesive. Apply the sealant to the desired area, then place the foil on top. Note that this is for adding foil, not for sealing your hydrostone.

Foil on Molds: You can also add foil to your silicone mold. Hydrostone will adhere to the foil when you demold the piece, which is a nice trick since it doesn’t work as easily with concrete.

2. Transfer Labels

• Application: Apply transfer labels directly to your hydrostone creation. Once the label is in place and properly adhered, you can seal over it. This method ensures that the label stays secure and is protected.

3. Painting and Stenciling

• Painting: You can paint or stencil your hydrostone piece once it’s fully cured. Allow the paint to dry completely before proceeding to the sealing stage.
• Sealing After Painting: After the paint or stencil is dry, you can proceed to seal the piece. This will help protect your artwork and ensure it lasts.

4. Sealing

Sealing is the final step in preserving your hydrostone creations. It locks in your foil, paint, or labels and protects the surface from moisture and wear. Apply the sealant according to the manufacturer’s instructions and ensure it covers all areas you want to protect.

This approach will help your hydrostone creations not only look their best but also maintain their durability over time.

Sealing

Once all your embellishments are dry and securely in place, it’s time to seal your hydrostone creation.

Why Seal Hydrostone?

Hydrostone is porous, which means that if you don’t seal it, liquids can seep into or out of the material, potentially damaging your creation.

Choosing the Right Sealant

Unfortunately, for candle makers using hydrostone, there is only one reliable sealant available. While other concrete sealants like Eco Ad, Rutlands, and Homax have failed, Earth Safe Finishes (ESF) sealant has proven effective.

Why Do Other Sealants Fail?

Concrete sealants often fail on hydrostone due to the differences in their compositions. Hydrostone is gypsum-based, while concrete is made from cement, sand, gravel, and water. Concrete sealants are designed to bond with and protect the mineral-rich, porous structure of concrete.

Hydrostone, being more delicate and smoother, doesn’t interact well with these sealants. The poor bonding and ineffective sealing result from these differences. Hydrostone’s higher water absorption also contributes to the ineffectiveness of concrete sealants.

The Solution

Thankfully, Earth Safe Finishes sealant is designed to handle the unique properties of hydrostone. Both ESF concrete sealant and hydro dip are suitable for sealing hydrostone and ensuring its durability.

Calcination

What is Calcination?

Calcination is the process of heating a material to a high temperature to induce chemical or physical changes. For hydrostone, calcination can start occurring at temperatures above 125 degrees Fahrenheit.

Temperature Concerns

If you believe that candle jars should never exceed 140 degrees Fahrenheit, you have a narrow margin of safety—just 15 degrees. That’s 140 degrees minus 125 degrees.

Sealant’s Role

Using a reliable sealant like Earth Safe Finishes Hydro Dip can significantly enhance the protection of your hydrostone jar. However, it’s crucial to understand that while sealants can offer substantial protection, they aren’t foolproof.

Sealants and Cracking

Think of a sealant like a condom—98% effective, but not foolproof. Although I’ve never had a hydrostone candle jar crack on me due to temperature issues (except once when I poured wax at 175 degrees), I’ve learned to keep my wax pour temperatures at 150 degrees or lower.

Wax Pouring Temperature

Pouring candle wax at high temperatures is often cited as a way to enhance hot throw. However, there is no scientific proof supporting this claim. If someone tells you otherwise, take it with a grain of salt.

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