The Secrets That No One Told You About When Using Jesmonite

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Let’s be honest—working with Jesmonite can feel like magic when it goes right. But if you’ve ever ended up with cracks, random holes, or unpredictable curing, you know it’s not always smooth sailing. And no, it’s not just about how you mix or pour.

Today, we’re diving into the real secrets—the kind nobody tells you when you first start out.

Because getting stronger, smoother, and more durable Jesmonite pieces? That’s not luck. There’s a reason some creations come out looking flawless, while others leave you wondering what went wrong.

And no shade to Google, but I’m not about to hit you with the same copy-paste tips you’ve already read a dozen times. You don’t need more fluff—you need clarity, confidence, and real understanding.

So if you’re ready to stop guessing and start mastering your Jesmonite game, let’s get into it.

Which Jesmonite Should You Use?

If you’ve been eyeing Jesmonite for your next project, you’ve probably come across two main types: Jesmonite AC100 and Jesmonite AC730. And you might be wondering… What’s the difference? Which one should I use?

Let’s break it down in plain English.

Jesmonite AC100 is your go-to for small to mid-size projects where you want that smooth, lightweight, detailed finish. Think decorative pieces, sculptures, or any project where the aesthetic matters more than the muscle. Bonus? It dries faster—so if you’re the impatient type (guilty), AC100 keeps things moving.

Now, Jesmonite AC730? That’s the tough guy in the room. It’s heavier, rougher, and built for durability. Perfect for large-scale pieces or anything that’s going to live outdoors and take a beating from the elements. It’s weather-resistant, super strong, and yeah—it takes a little longer to dry, but the trade-off is worth it when strength is the priority.

So here comes the million-dollar question…

What About Jesmonite Candle Jars?

If candles are your jam (and I know they are), you might be wondering: Can I use Jesmonite for my candle jars?

Short answer? Yes—you can use either AC100 or AC730. But let’s talk details.

• AC100 gives you that sleek, polished look. If your vibe is clean and minimal, this one’s for you.

• AC730 has a more rugged, stone-like texture. So if you like your jars to look earthy and raw, this one delivers.

But here’s the catch—and it’s a big one.

It doesn’t matter which Jesmonite you use—both have the same temperature limit when it comes to candles: 140°F (60°C). That’s the max surface temperature your candle jar should hit. Go hotter than that and you risk cracks, weakened structure, or worse… a jar that’s too hot to handle.

And let’s be real—nobody wants a candle that turns into a hand-warmer from hell.

So whether you choose AC100 for smoothness or AC730 for that gritty charm, just remember: stay under 140°F to keep things safe and strong.

If you’re curious about why this temperature matters so much (and why metal jars are a whole different story), I’ve got you covered. I linked a video in the description that breaks it all down. Definitely check it out when you finish reading here.

Storing Jesmonite: Do It Right or Regret It Later

Let’s talk about something that seems simple but is way more important than people realize: storing your Jesmonite.

I’m about to hit you with a phrase you’ve heard a million times—and yeah, it’s a cliché—but sometimes the classics are classics for a reason:

Store your Jesmonite in a cool, dry place.

I know… you’ve heard that before. Like, a lot. But so many people still ignore it, and then wonder why their Jesmonite suddenly acts like it’s never met a mold before. This part is crucial—especially if you want smooth, strong results every time.

Remember, we’re not laying down highways or waterproofing basements. We’re making art. Beautiful, handmade, display-worthy art.

So whether you’re working with AC100 or AC730, storing your Jesmonite properly will help it last longer than your willpower at an all-you-can-eat buffet.

But What Does “Cool and Dry” Actually Mean?

Let’s get specific.

You want to store your Jesmonite somewhere the temperature stays between 50°F and 77°F (10°C to 25°C).

That’s the sweet spot.

Too hot? It dries out, gets clumpy, or turns into a crumbly mess.
Too cold? It gets too soft, messes with consistency, and just feels… off.

Worst-case scenario? You end up with powder that won’t blend, pieces that break too easily, or something that just plain sucks. And let’s be honest—nobody wants to waste time or money on materials that ghost you mid-pour.

And Please… Keep It Away from Moisture

Jesmonite hates humidity.

If you store it somewhere damp—like a steamy bathroom, a musty basement, or an attic that can’t decide on a personality—it’ll clump up, and mixing becomes a nightmare. You’ll be fighting lumps instead of focusing on your craft.

Personally? I avoid storing Jesmonite anywhere near:

• Bathrooms

• Kitchens

• Basements

• Attics
  …aka any place where humidity flips more than my wife changes her mind about which shoes go best with her outfit (love you, babe).

One More Thing—Seal It Tight

If it comes in a sealed container, keep it that way.
If you need to transfer it, make sure the new container is airtight. Moisture and air are sneaky—they’ll creep in and ruin your materials if you let them.

So: cool, dry, airtight. That’s the storage trifecta.

Lastly… Keep It Out of Direct Sunlight

Why?

Because sunlight can screw it up—like that time I tried to tan and ended up looking like a lobster.
Actually… every time I try to tan I end up looking like a lobster.
That’s why I don’t tan.

Regardless…

Keep your Jesmonite in a cool, dry place.
Because trust me, the alternative?
Not as pretty as me.

Safety First (Because the Best Time to Take Care of Your Health Is When You Have It)

Let’s be real for a second:
The best time to take care of your health is when you have it.

And when it comes to working with Jesmonite, that means taking a few simple steps to protect yourself before you dive headfirst into your next project.

Trust me—it’s way better to be safe than sorry.

Is Jesmonite Toxic?

Short answer: No.

Longer answer: It’s not toxic, but—and this is a big but—it’s still made of powdered and liquid components that you should treat with respect.

When you mix Jesmonite, you’re working with powder. That powder?
It can float up into the air and go places it’s not supposed to go… like your lungs.

And breathing in dust particles?
Let’s say it together: Not a good idea.

So here’s the move:

• Work in a well-ventilated space

• Wear an N95 mask if you’re mixing a lot

• Or, like me, go full boss mode and rock a full-face respirator.
  It’s a game changer.

What About the Liquid?

The liquid part of Jesmonite is acrylic-based and relatively safe.
But I don’t like to leave things to chance—I gear up.

That means gloves. Always gloves.

Why?

Because even if something isn’t immediately harmful, repeated exposure over time can add up.
And honestly? I’m not interested in finding out what kind of weird skin drama could show up years later. Neither should you.

Don’t Forget the Eyes

Protect those peepers!

Wear safety goggles, especially when:

• Mixing

• Sanding

• Demolding anything that might pop or spray

If you’re already wearing a full-face respirator like me, you’re covered. But if not, throw on a pair of work goggles and keep those eyes happy.

Look, I’m not trying to be your mom or your dad.

But I’ll say it again:

The best time to take care of your health is when you have it.

So suit up, play it safe, and let’s keep creating beautiful things—without coughing up dust or wondering what that rash is from.

Silicone Bowls – Your New Best Friend

So… why are these silicone bowls a must-have when working with Jesmonite?

Well, technically, you could use whatever you want.
But once you try these bad boys, you’ll never want to go back.

Why They’re a Game Changer

Mixing? ✅
Pouring? ✅
Cleaning up without losing your mind? ✅✅✅

Silicone bowls make the entire process ridiculously easy.
The last thing you want is to waste time scrubbing a crusty bowl or tossing out disposables like it’s 1995.
Not only does that slow you down—it also adds more trash to a planet that’s already got enough problems.

With silicone bowls:

• Mix your Jesmonite

• Pour it into your mold

• Let the leftovers dry

• Then peel the cured bits right out like it’s magic

No scrubbing. No soaking. No drama.

Built to Last

These bowls can handle it all—pigments, paints, dyes, additives—you name it.
And they still come out looking fresh.

Now, real talk:
They’re durable, but they’re not indestructible.
You can’t beat them up and expect them to stay flawless. A little love goes a long way:

• Wipe them down after use

• Don’t let stuff sit in them forever

Take care of them, and they’ll keep showing up for you like a loyal craft sidekick.

So, Could You Use Something Else?

Sure.
But… why?

Silicone bowls are flexible, easy to clean, durable, and save you time.

So go ahead—make your life easier.
Your future self will be sending you thank-you notes. Probably scented.

How to Mix Jesmonite (Without Losing Your Mind)

Depending on which Jesmonite you’re using—AC100 or AC730—the mixing ratio is different.
But don’t worry, it’s not complicated. I got you.

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Jesmonite AC100

The mixing ratio for AC100 is 2.5 parts powder to 1 part liquid (by weight).

So far so good?

Let’s break it down with a real example.

I have a silicone mold with a dedicated lid, and I know it needs 380 grams of mixture to fill.
Since the ratio is 2.5:1, that means the total “parts” equal:

2.5 + 1 = 3.5 parts

So now we divide:

380 ÷ 3.5 = 108.57g
Let’s round that to 109g to keep it easy.

That means 1 part = 109g

Now let’s figure out how much powder we need:

109 × 2.5 = 272.5g
Rounding that to 271g, you get:

✅ 271g of powder
✅ 109g of liquid

Boom! That’s your AC100 mix.

Let’s make that vessel.

Voila!
Here is your beautiful Jesmonite AC100 vessel.

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Jesmonite AC730

But wait—just like a 1970s TV commercial—there’s more!

Now let’s look at Jesmonite AC730, which has a 5:1 ratio
(aka double the powder compared to AC100).

That means it’s stronger, more durable, but also thicker and a little trickier to work with.

Same mold, same total: 380g

AC730 is 5 parts powder + 1 part liquid = 6 parts total

So we do the math:

380 ÷ 6 = 63.33g
Round that to 63g for ease.

That’s your 1 part (liquid)

Now multiply to get the powder:

63 × 5 = 315g

So for AC730:

✅ 315g of powder
✅ 63g of liquid

Once again, easy.

Let’s mix and pour…

Voila!
Here’s your Jesmonite AC730 vessel.

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Comparing the Two

Let’s look at them side by side.

It’s pretty obvious:
The AC730 vessel has a rougher, more textured vibe.
The AC100 vessel is smoother and sleeker.

Which one do you like better?

Personally, I’m an AC100 fan, but hey—to each their own.

Using Pigments (a.k.a. How Not to Ruin Your Mix)

Some of my favorite pigments come from the Jesmonite Color Collection—they’re vibrant, rich, and true to what you see on the label.

That said…

You can use whatever pigments you want…
As long as they actually work with Jesmonite.

Yep, I said it twice on purpose. Because not all pigments are compatible with Jesmonite.

Why Some Pigments Don’t Work

Because…
It’s like that—and that’s the way it is.

Okay, okay. In all seriousness:

Jesmonite has a unique composition, and some pigments just don’t play nice.
They might:

• Refuse to blend properly

• Give you streaks or patchy color

• Change the final hue

• Or just not react well with the formula at all

So test first or stick with known winners—Jesmonite’s own pigments are a safe bet.

A Little Goes a Long Way

Think of pigment like hot sauce:
A few drops = flavor.
Too much = you’re sweating, chugging oat milk, and questioning every decision you’ve ever made. ️

Same deal here:
Start small. Mix well. Build up slowly.

But don’t exceed 5% of your total mixture.
Too much pigment can weaken your creation.
And we want strength and beauty, right?

Let’s Do the Math (Don’t Panic)

Remember our 380g silicone mold example?

What’s 5% of 380?

380 × 0.05 = 19g

So the maximum pigment you should add is 19g.

Don’t like math?
Hate decimals?
Get overwhelmed and need a snack just thinking about percentages?

No stress—Google is your friend.

Final Word

Pigment should enhance your creation—not destroy it.

Too much can mess with the integrity of your piece.
So keep it light, build up, and trust the process.

Because when it comes to pigment:

Less is more…
Unless we’re talking about tacos. Then more is always better.

Marbling Jesmonite Like a Pro (or at Least Like a Confident Experimenter)

Thinking about marbling your Jesmonite?

Great idea.

There are a few different ways to get that beautiful, swirly effect—and the best part? No two marbles are ever alike. Every pour is a new surprise.

Let’s break down the options:

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️ Method #1: Acrylic Paint

If you’re looking for bold, dramatic swirls, this is your method.

• Mix a small amount of acrylic paint directly onto the surface of your Jesmonite after mixing the base.

• Gently swirl or fold the paint into the mixture—don’t overmix.

• Pour slowly into your mold and let the magic happen.

Note: Acrylic paint can give you vivid results, but play around with amounts and colors—you’ll need a few test runs to find your groove.

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Method #2: Pigment

Want a more natural, organic marble look? This method’s for you.

• Make two (or more) separate batches of Jesmonite, each with a different pigment color.

• Pour them into the mold at the same time, side by side, or in alternating pours.

• Let them swirl and mix naturally as they settle.

You’ll get beautiful, flowing patterns—and after a few tries, you’ll start developing your own marbling style. The fun is in the randomness.

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Method #3: Rit Dye

This one’s super simple—and surprisingly cool.

• Add a few drops of Rit Dye into your mixture.

• Stir gently, swirl it around a bit, and pour.

It’s quick. It’s fun. And it can give you some wild, unexpected results.

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⚠️ But Wait—The Big BUT

Whether you’re using paint, pigment, or dye:

Don’t forget the 5% rule.

Too much colorant can weaken your mix, and we’re not here for beautiful but crumbly creations. Stay under 5% total pigment (based on your full mix weight) to keep things strong.

So, which method are you trying first?

Me? I like to mix it up—pun totally intended.

After Mixing Jesmonite, Let It Settle for a Minute

So, you’ve mixed up your Jesmonite and you’re itching to pour it into the mold, right?

Before you do, take a quick pause and let it settle for about a minute. Here’s why:

When you mix Jesmonite, air bubbles get trapped in the mixture. Some of these bubbles naturally rise to the surface and pop on their own, but if you pour immediately, some will stay stuck inside your mold—especially at the bottom (which will end up being the top of your vessel once it’s demolded).

And what do we want at the top of our creation? Smooth, clean surfaces.

If you skip this quick step, you might end up with extra bubbles or voids around the rim of your vessel, making it look uneven and rough.

So, just one minute. That’s all it takes to let those bubbles escape before you pour.

It’s a small step, but trust me—it makes a big difference.

Silicone Molds

Okay, let’s state the obvious: Jesmonite, Cement All, Hydrostone—whatever you’re using—they all get really hard once they set.

But here’s the thing. The last thing you want is a silicone mold that’s so tight you’re struggling to demold your creation. And believe me, if you’re demolding dozens of vessels, it’ll eventually hurt your hands.

I know you might not think much of it if you’re only doing a handful of pieces, but try handling 20 or 30 in one go and see how your hands feel by the end. I’ve been there. Demolding can turn into a serious workout—and not the good kind.

I’m not kidding. After demolding about 10 pieces, my hands felt like they were done.

As you get older, it only gets tougher. And let’s face it, you’ve already got a ton on your plate—diet, sleep, mental health, finances… and if you have kids? Well, you definitely don’t want to add sore hands to the list.

So, here’s my best advice: Use softer silicone molds that don’t compromise on quality.

Where can you find those?

The best ones I’ve found are from Boowan Nicole (here). They’re soft, flexible, and make demolding a breeze. You could demold 20 or 30 of them and still have enough energy in your hands to do more.

Check out this demolding challenge I did last year.

The goal? Compare the time it takes to demold a Boowan Nicole silicone mold vs. an Amazon mold.

Take a look here.

Did you notice how tough it was to demold the Amazon mold?

Look, I’m not saying all silicone molds are bad. There are good options out there. But some are so thick and tight, it feels like you’re peeling off your pants after a huge Thanksgiving dinner. Not fun.

How to Pour to Avoid Bubbles

Earlier, I mentioned letting your mixture settle before pouring it into the mold, but how you mix it will play a huge role in how many bubbles you get.

Let me show you the wrong way to mix.

Did you see that?

Let’s do it again.

Still not clear? One more time.

You do not want to mix your Jesmonite like this.

You want to mix it like this.

Nice and gentle.

Here’s the deal: When you mix slowly and gently, bubbles won’t even have a chance to form. Think about it—if you’re mixing calmly, there’s not enough force to trap air in the mixture.

Another trick to reduce bubbles? Fill your mold halfway and give it a gentle squeeze. This will pop any trapped air, especially the stubborn ones that like to hang out near the top rim of your candle jar.

So, if you mix like the first example or forget to squeeze the mold—guess what? You’ll end up with more bubbles than I have blonde moments in a day.

And trust me, that’s saying something.

Demolding Times

One question I get asked a lot is, “How long does it take to demold a creation?”

Well, there are a few factors that come into play: the size of your item, the product you’re using, and the ambient temperature in your workspace.

Unfortunately, Jesmonite has two very different demolding times depending on whether you’re using AC100 or AC730.

But on average, here’s what you’re looking at:

For AC100, you can usually demold your creations in about an hour if you’re working with a Jesmonite candle jar. Remember, size matters—so the bigger the creation, the longer it will take.

However, there’s a little trick to speed up your demolding process.

I say YOUR process because everyone will have slightly different times.

Here’s what you can do: Demold 5 minutes earlier each time you pour your mixture into a mold.

For example, if your creation took 55 minutes to demold the first time, try 50 minutes next time. Keep reducing the time until your creation breaks. Once it does, add a few minutes back for safety, and voilà—that’s your ideal demolding time for that mold.

It works. I’ve shaved nearly 40 minutes off some of my Cement All pieces, so even saving 5 or 10 minutes over time really adds up.

For AC730, the general rule is 3 to 4 hours for demolding. Again, size and thickness will affect this, but just like with AC100, you can gradually test your demolding time using the same technique above.

So, if it took 4 hours the first time, try 3 hours 55 minutes next time, then 3 hours 50 minutes, and so on.

You get the idea. I’ve managed to demold my AC100 creations in 50 minutes and my AC730 creations in 3 hours and 35 minutes.

Alright, let’s move on!

Curing

One of the things I love about Jesmonite is that it cures pretty quickly.

Let me guess—you don’t really know the difference between drying and curing, right?

Here’s the deal: Drying is simply when moisture leaves the material, so it’s no longer wet to the touch. Jesmonite dries pretty fast—AC100 dries quicker, while AC730 takes a little longer.

Curing, on the other hand, is where the magic happens. This is the process where the material goes through chemical hardening and reaches its full strength. Well, strong enough to seal it, at least! But I’m getting ahead of myself.

Curing takes much longer than drying—typically 24 hours for AC100 and 24 to 48 hours for AC730.

But if you really want to make sure your Jesmonite creations are fully cured, here’s what you should do:

First, after you demold your creation, weigh it and jot that number down.

Then, the next day, weigh it again and jot that number down. You should notice a slight drop in weight.

Technically, an AC100 creation should be cured after 24 hours, but wait one more day and weigh it again. If the weight is pretty much the same—within 1 or 2 grams—your creation is good to go.

For AC730, give it a third day and do the same weight test.

That’s how you know for sure that your items are fully cured, based on your environment.

Just keep in mind that curing can vary depending on temperature and humidity. Each environment is a little different, so curing times might change.

Sealing

If you didn’t know you need to seal your Jesmonite creations before adding candle wax, well, now you know.

But why do we need to seal them in the first place?

Jesmonite—just like Cement All and Hydrostone—is really porous. That means there are tiny holes and spaces that can let liquid, like candle wax, seep through. Not ideal.

There are plenty of sealers out there, and I’ve tested more than I care to admit. But there’s one that has never let me down: Earth Safe Finishes (ESF).

I know, I know—you’re thinking, “But Jai, you always say ESF.” True. But name one that’s better than ESF?

Better yet—name one that’s safer? Or one specifically made for concrete, Hydrostone, and Jesmonite?

I’ll wait.

That’s why I keep recommending Earth Safe Finishes—because after testing so many, nothing else checks all the boxes quite like it.

A good sealer, like ESF, does two main things:

1. It prevents contents (like your candle wax) from leaking out.

2. It stops outside moisture from seeping back in.

AND THIS is why you need to let your vessels fully cure before sealing.

If there’s still water trapped in those tiny pores, sealing too soon will lock in that moisture—and under the right conditions, it’ll find its way out.

It’s like packing wet clothes into a suitcase and zipping it shut. At first, everything seems fine, but give it some time, and suddenly you’re dealing with damp, wrinkled, musty clothes.

Now, Jesmonite won’t wrinkle or smell musty, but if you trap moisture inside, eventually, it’s going to find a way out.

And when you burn your candle, that trapped moisture can cause issues.

If you seal too early and then pour your wax, the heat from the flame can push that trapped moisture out, leading to bubbling, peeling, or even cracking.

So, unless you want your candle to throw a tantrum with bubbles and cracks, sealing with patience is key.

To view the full video on The Secrets That No One Told You About When Using Jesmonite click here.